If you dig just a little, you’ll find hidden treasures throughout Zanzibar. Not jewels or diamonds, cash or crypto, but those riches will nonetheless reward you beyond measure. Simply slow down, open your eyes, allow your senses to be flooded, and you’ll discover the wealth of this island paradise; lazy afternoons at the Africa House Hotel, open air evening dining in Forohdani Gardens, weaving with local artisans, and, naturally, chasing monkeys on the beach are only a few of the unexpected and unique adventures to be had.

Arriving at Zanzibar City’s Abeid Amani Karume International Airport on the main island of Unguja, I was met with the familiar sights, sounds, and smells of the tropical world: wood smoke wafting on the breeze, the blasting of horns in the street, the ever-present humidity. My wife, Joscelyn, and I had booked a room at Kholle House in Stone Town in the heart of the capital city for a couple nights to adjust to our new surroundings after enduring some 20 hours of travel. Kholle House is an intimate guest house featuring exquisite Indian and Arabic architecture, an outstanding restaurant with stellar service, and a convenient, central Stone Town location. The rooftop features 360-degree views of the city, cooling breezes, and an open-air lounge where we sipped “Blue Lagoons,” gorged on avocado/tuna appetizers, and where we were first introduced to one of the city’s many cultural wonders: the lovely exotic melodies ringing out across the city at sunset calling the Muslim faithful to prayer. And in a preview of things to come, our first wildlife sighting occurred there when a baby gecko dropped precipitously onto my hand from the thatched roof.

The Zanzibar archipelago features a striking mélange of cultures-Swahili, Indian, Arabic, Persian, Portuguese, British, and German-that is reflected in the music, dance, food, architecture, and of course, faces. The island’s strategic location off Tanzania’s eastern coast makes it a center for commerce and tourism, that over centuries has brought together a jumble of merchants, pirates, royalty, and adventure-seekers from throughout the Indian Ocean region. 

Archaeological evidence suggests that the archipelago was likely settled by Bantu speakers during the first millennium. At Fukuchani, on Zanzibar’s northwest coast, further evidence suggests a settled agricultural and fishing community had been established by the 6th century and as international trade grew in volume and importance, by the 10th century, Zanzibar had become a major trading center.

Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama's 1498 landing on Zanzibar marked the beginning of European influence and set the stage for a pattern of violence and bloodshed that characterized western colonialism throughout the Age of Exploration. Over the next four centuries the stage was set for power struggles between the Portuguese, the Omani sultanate, and eventually the British (conveniently excluding the island’s original inhabitants, though). Zanzibar’s first Omani Sultan (1856), Majid bin Said, consolidated power around the east African slave trade, with some 50,000 slaves passing through Stone Town’s main port in the mid-19th century. Upon Majid’s death in 1870, his brother Barghash succeeded him and was forced by the British to abolish the slave trade. Zanzibar enjoyed British protectorate status until 1963 when England began preparing the island for self-rule. The next year, following the bloody Zanzibar Revolution that overthrew the governing Arab dynasty, Zanzibar gained full independence and shortly thereafter, merged with Tanganyika to become Tanzania. 

Today, Zanzibar is officially part of Tanzania but politically retains limited autonomous status. An aspect of Tanzania’s politics that both surprised and pleased us was the fact that if the president is from Zanzibar, the vice president must be from the mainland and vice-versa. Zanzibar native Samia Suluhu Hassan became Tanzania’s first female President in March 2021 after serving under President John Magufuli who died as a result of suspected Covid-related complications. Politics aside, we felt entirely welcome throughout our stay in Zanzibar, surrounded by gracious and generous hosts. 

Walking tours took us to various destinations throughout Stone Town-some well-known, others not: Freddy Mercury’s birthplace, Darajani Market, Forohdani Gardens, and endless maze-like alleyways. In one hidden away shop we purchased a Bao board, a traditional mancala board game played throughout Eastern Africa but which I remember from my childhood in South America. We found the Africa House Hotel, spending a lazy afternoon wandering through its museum-like halls adorned with traditional art, historical photographs, and vintage furniture. The afternoon concluded with relaxing in the spacious outdoor bar with its fabulous Indian Ocean view, drinking “Kilis” (Kilimanjaro beer), watching ngalawas glide across the dimpled sea.

After the opulence of Kholle House and Stone Town, we traveled to Paje on Unguja’s southeastern coast to spend a couple days at Hakuna Majiwe Beach Resort. Although the resort wasn’t the all-inclusive hi-rise monstrosity one finds in some tourist destinations, it did check all the beach, sun, and sand boxes. The wonderful attention and warmth from the staff more than made up for the lack of luxuries (like room service and air conditioning) but prepared us in the most delightful way for “living outdoors” that would occupy most of our time in Zanzibar and later, during safari on the Tanzanian mainland. And with breakfast and supper included in the daily rate, our main expense was for the “sundowners,” otherwise known to Westerners as “happy hour.”

You can spend your days on Zanzibar holed up in one of its myriad beach resorts or you can seek out the people, culture, and beauty the island has to offer. Joscelyn and I were determined to visit Jambiani, a nearby municipality of 12 secondary villages, the first of which is Mwendawima. So, after a short cab ride, we met up with Ameir of Wanawakewetu Tours to start our walking visit through the town. The introduction to village life was a lovely, informative overview of how most people live on the island.

Our first stop on the 2+ hour tour was the town’s Pre-K/K school, Mwendawima Nursery School. Funded and supported by philanthropic organizations, the Jambiani Kikadini committee for education and development, and private donors, the school opened in 2008 and serves about 90 children between the ages of 4 and 7, four teachers, and a cook. We were highly impressed to hear the youngsters counting to ten and reciting the alphabet in both Swahili and English! Despite the scarcity of supplies and equipment (desks, chairs, books, etc.) the teachers and staff still made do and deserve a great deal of credit for their hard work and commitment. 

We continued to a women’s group where we learned about various crafts made from natural materials such as palm fronds and locally spun wool. Ameir patiently explained the cultural significance behind the gorgeous wraps, baskets, and other textiles. Our tour ended with a spectacular lunch of fish, beans, and naan at the Karibu Restaurant in the heart of the town. And how irresistible is a place whose motto is “Hassan, please don’t kill me with delicious food?” 

Mwendawima’s economy is based primarily on the surrounding environment: most men fish for a living while women labor in the seaweed market, harvesting it for perfumes and lotions. The town has developed a modest tourist trade (primarily beach vacationers) but it typically doesn’t involve, or benefit, local residents. Cultural/heritage tourism is one way to address that need and, clearly, Ameir wants to see that happen.

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Mwendawima, Jambiani, Zanzibar, October 2021 Our encounters with wildlife on Zanzibar were brief but still exciting, a preview of the main event to come on the mainland in a few days. Unguja boasts the endemic, and endangered, red colubus monkey that were regular visitors to Hukana Majiwe (conservationists are working with the local government to devise an effective strategy to protect the population and habitat). One morning after breakfast, I followed a troop of about six individuals as they made their way through the pine trees growing along the beach. Although habituated to human presence, the monkeys still kept their distance, eventually scampering away as if fed up with the humans gawking at them. Although its wildlife is limited to marine life, small animals, birds, and butterflies we were nonetheless primed for our trip’s main event: exploring Tanzania’s interior and its national parks, Nyerere (Selous), Ruaha, and Mahale Mountains.

Zanzibar introduced us to monkeys, birds, and the occasional gecko dropping from the skies, but the true delight was getting a glimpse of the archipelago’s rich history and culture. Lovely Zanzibar, having fulfilled its R&R purposes, will most assuredly be on future itineraries, the next visit a longer exploration of its considerable hidden riches.

More later.